Alerted cloth
Akwete cloth
| Subclass of | woven fabric, African textiles |
|---|---|
| Named after | Akwete |
| Country of origin | Nigeria |
| Made from material | cotton, silk, rayon |
| Fabrication method | hand weaving, brocading |
| Has pattern | geometric pattern |
(fut) yaa b sẽn naan ne nus n naan ne b nus b sẽn naan n naan ne a ye wã sẽn naan yɩ a ye.[1][2][3] B sẽn boond tɩ "Aruru" wã rat n yeelame tɩ "bõn-bɩɩs sẽn yaa bũmb sẽn yaa to-to", "Mkpuru Akwete" la "Akwete fut".[3][4] Bãag-kãnga sẽn yaa Igbo wã sẽn da maandã, b maanda sisal, koabg, rafia, bẽed bɩ bõn-bõoneg a taab tɩ b lebg teed sẽn yaa sõma.[5] Baa ne sẽn da yaa maskarã la b ra tũnugd ne rafi wã sẽn yaa kãn-kãe wã n kɩtd tɩ b lebg sodaasã gãndg n kõ-b tɩbse, b ra tũnugda ne ko-kãnga n tolgd gãndg, logd la nug-biisã. B tũnugda ne b sẽn da nong n dat n yeelg b to wã n na n yɩ to-to.[3] A Akwete futã tara bõn-naands wʋsgo. Rũndã-rũndã, pagbã ket n maandda Akwete fut sẽn na yɩl n paam n paam n tall-b n tɩ ta dũniyã gill zugu.[6]
Kibare
[tekre | teke sidgem]Bõn-naands wʋsg la b sẽn da rat n maan daarã yaa Akwete futã wɛɛngẽ, baa ne b sẽn wilg tɩ b beeme wã sẽn sɩng yʋʋmd 1800 wã sʋka.[6]
B sẽn da maand teed nins sẽn be Niger Delta wã n da moond ne neb a taab Igboland soolmẽ wã, b ra baoodame tɩ b ra paam a Akwete futã.[2] B ra yaa Ijo nin-buiidã, tɩ b ra yaa b sẽn da tar no-rɩk n na n dɩk no-rãmba. Neb a taab n da be n gomd Ibani, Okrika, la Kalabari buud-gomdã. A Ijebu Yorubas ra koosda a Zezi futã n kõ a Akwete nebã.[7] Neb nins sẽn da kẽnd Niger kʋɩlgã pʋga, n kẽed ne neb a taabã, n bãnge. Yaa woto yĩng tɩ yaa wakat sẽn kaoos la kom-bondb nins sẽn da be Akwete wã ra segd n pa beẽ ye.[8]

Sẽn paase, a sẽn wa n wa n maand tɩ b pa tar zu-loees ne koodã, a kɩtame tɩ b pa le tar yembdo, a Akwete futã lebga bũmb ning sẽn yaa a yõod n yɩɩd a zak pʋgẽ ye. Woto kɩtame tɩ tʋʋm nins sẽn da yaa wakat sẽn pa kaoos pagb sẽn da tʋmdẽ wã lebg tʋʋm sẽn pa kaoos la minim sẽn pa kaoos ye.[3] A Akwete nebã ra mii a sẽn yaa to-to wã la b ra nong-a lame, tɩ Europay nebã sɩng n da koosd ne Akwete nebã. Sẽn paase, Europẽ rãmb kõo Akwete pagb zãmsg sẽn kẽed ne modem-paalgã la b paam n paam b mens ne sãambã sẽn maand b sẽn tõe n maan bũmb ninsã.[6] Yʋʋmd 1800 wã tɛka, Akwete nebã ra tũnugda ne bob sẽn da wa ne wã n naan naan naan naan maan-tɩrsã tao-tao, wala b sẽn da tigd b tãabo. Sẽn paase, b sẽn da paam n bãng b sẽn tõe n maan to-to n tʋk b mens ne b mens n tɩ ges b sẽn tõe ne bũmb ninsã, b kɩtame tɩ b rɩkda b sẽn yetã n dat n dɩk a Zeova Kaset rãmbã. Sẽn na yɩl n tõog n tõog n bãng b sẽn tõe n maan to-to wã, b ra segd n saka b mens ne b sẽn tõe fãa n maan to - to wã. Sẽn paase, b sẽn da tũnugd ne b sẽn da maand ne masĩn wã, b kɩtame tɩ b tõog n maneg b tʋʋmã sõma, la b tall b sẽn da tʋm ne-bã n tɩ moon-b wã. Yʋʋmd 1946 wã, b maana bũmb wʋsg ne b sẽn da maand a Akwete wã. Yaa gãnemd sẽn yaa kãsenga, n kɩt tɩ b pa le tar sẽk n na n tʋk ye. La yaa ligd wʋsgo, tɩ pʋg-sadb wʋsg pa tõe n paam n dɩk-a.[2]
Sẽn da yaa minimã yaa tɩ pagbã na n dɩkda b kom-pugli la b kom-bɩɩsã n dɩk b kom-piisã n kõ b kom-bi-pogsã.[6] Yaa neb nins sẽn pa be Akwete wã nengẽ la b pa mi b bãngrã ye. Yaa bũmb sẽn da yaa to-to tɩ kom-bɩɩs sɩng b sẽn na n zãms n tʋg b to wã b sẽn na yɩl n tõog n tõog n tʋg a to wã b yʋʋm a yoob bɩ a yopoe wã. Kom-bɩɩs kãensã kell n da ket n tigda taab n dɩkd b kambã la b rɩkd b toor-toor. Pagbã ra tara b sẽn na n yɩ to-to n ta yʋʋm pis-naas la pis-naase.[2]
Technique
[tekre | teke sidgem]
B sã n da tʋgdẽ, b tikda b toogã. Sɩngrẽ wã b ra maanda ne bambu, la poore b ra maanda n kõ-a-la tɩɩs la rat-n-tɩrga.[6] Sã n yaa ne Akwete pagb sẽn da yaa tʋʋm-tʋmdbã, yaa rao wã tʋʋmd n da segd n maan b tʋʋm-tʋmdã.[3] Rɩt-rãmbã yaa buud a yiibu: raglem sẽn yaa tɩrg sẽn yaa raglem la pagbã sẽn yaa gãnd sẽn yaa gãnda. Sẽn yaa minim, pagb n maand b sẽn da maand bũmb ning sẽn yaa kãsenga wã.[6][9] La tẽngã sẽn pa beẽ wã, nebã sɩngame n zãmsda b sẽn tõe n tʋg to-to wã, la b me sɩngame n maand to-to. A Akwete fut wʋsg yaa a zãag a zãagã la a zãag sẽn ta sentimetr 40 la a 50 la a sã n wa paam n sɛb-a.[9] B gãda a Egbu-Nkwe n gãd a tãntã, la a Ukwu-Nkpuro wã zãada a tãntgã n boog a sẽn na n wa n gãdgã. B tũnugda ne bũmb a to sẽn boond tɩ Ekiki n manegd a to wã zãadã zãadã, n kɩtd tɩ Paapaa wã maand bũmb sẽn pa wõnd a to wã. B sã n wa n daag a to wã, b tũnugda ne Ahia Heddle n naan naan maan-n-tɩrsã.[6] B sẽn da pa tar tɩbgdã kɩtdame tɩ b yĩm-gãosgo lebg sõma. B leb n tũnugda ne fɩt-bil sẽn tar sãnem dãmb a yiib n kɩt tɩ fɩt sẽn yaa fɩtã yaa fɩtɩl. La sã n yaa ne a sã n yaa a sã n tar a sã n pa tar a sãnda, a tõe n kɩtame tɩ a sãnda wã lebg a sãnda.[10] B sẽn da maand bũmb ningã yaa ne taab n wilgd tɩ b yaa ne taab sẽn yaa to-to. D sã n maand bũmb wʋsg n pa tar pãng n yaool n tʋkdẽ, tõe n kɩtame tɩ d yãgd tɩ b pa tar pãng ye. Sẽn paase, b na n kɩtame tɩ b tõe n naag ne taab n naag taab n naag n naag taab ne taab n maan bũmb toor-toor. B leb n tũnugda ne b sẽn da maand n maand n pa tõe n maan bũmb ning ye.[9]
Sɩngrẽ wã, b ra bɩɩsdda bũmb nins b sẽn da tʋgd ne b to wã Akwete pʋgẽ.[6] A sẽn yaa b sẽn naanã yaa b sẽn maan tɩ b naan yɩ to-to, n yaool n maan tɩ b maan tɩ b tõe n maan tɩ nebã bãng tɩ b yaa to-to. B sẽn naag tɩ b naan n naan n naan tɩ b naan tɩ b maan b toorẽ wã, b yãnda b sẽn yaa b toorẽ to-to wã.[10] Sẽn yɩɩd b sẽn da tũnugd ne b toor-toor n mi b sẽn mi b sẽn tõe n mi b mens n tʋkdã yaa rafia, sisal-hemp la b sẽn mi n mi b b sẽn mi tɩ b mi b sẽn pa mi b mens ye.[3] Rũndã-rũndã, yaa minim tɩ Akwete pagb na n tũnug ne zu-loees nins b sẽn tall n wa n tɩ yi tẽngã pʋgẽ wã bala. [9] Sẽn na yɩl n tõog n maan a sẽn datã, a tõe n maana rasem a tãab n yaool n maan a sã n dat n maan a tʋʋmde.[11]
Sẽn paasd ne tigimsã, Akwete pagb me n da pʋɩt a to wã. Akwete pʋg-sadb maana taab ne taab n yaa b sẽn da maandẽ wã. Rɩk-y tɩ b tõe n yãk b sẽn datã fãa n yãk b yam n yãk b mens n yãk b toorẽ yam n yãk-b n kõ-b b mens n kõ-ba.[3]
A kẽrse
[tekre | teke sidgem]A Akwete wã yaa neb nins sẽn be Nizɛɛrã n dɩkd n tɩ yi tẽns a taabã.[6] A Akwamiri sẽn yaa a Akwete wã, b ra tũnugda ne a taabã n paas b ra-rãmbã, la b ra tũnugd ne-a n maand yel-bũndb la b gãneg-a-la ne b gãndb la a gãndb sẽn yaa b gãndbã yĩnga.[2]
Yaa a sẽn da nong n yeel tɩ b yaa nin-buiid sẽn tar pãng la b yaa nin sẽn tar pãng n maand bũmb ninsã. A yaa a sẽn nong n yeel t'a yaa nin-buiidã sẽn nong n maand bũmb ning fãa.[2][9][12] Wala makre, b tõe n dɩka Akwete fut n kõ-b-la zak zak la b maan-b-a tɩ b maan tɩ b maan maan tɩ b yĩm-b-b-bees roogã.[8] B sẽn da maand daar fãa wã, b ra tõe n maana fu-rãmba, gãndb, gãnd-rãmba la gãndb sẽn kẽed ne.[2]
Sẽn yɩɩd fãa, b ra rɩkda rafi wã sẽn da yaa b sẽn da tar n na n maan maskarã, n yeelg n maan zab ne sodaasã, la b yeelg-b ne b sẽn maand bũmb ninsã. B ra rɩkda b sẽn da nong n yeelgd nebã to-to wã n yeelgd b to wã. La rũndã-rũndã, b tõe n maana b toor-toor ne b sẽn da tar b toor-toorã.[3]
Motifs
[tekre | teke sidgem]A Zaman yuaru
[tekre | teke sidgem]Karimi m-paasi
[tekre | teke sidgem]- Patronage and Akwete Weaving, Lisa Aronson, African Arts, Vol. 13, No. 3 (May, 1980), pp. 62–66+91 DOI: 10.2307/3335705
- Nigerian Textiles: Evolution of Surface Design, Sigrid Docken Mount, African Arts, Vol. 13, No. 2 (Feb., 1980), pp. 76–77 DOI: 10.2307/3335524
- Nigerian Textiles, Grace O. Martin, African Arts, Vol. 7, No. 3 (Spring, 1974), pp. 76–78 DOI: 10.2307/3334869
- West African Decorative Weaving, Kate P. Kent, African Arts, Vol. 6, No. 1 (Autumn, 1972), pp. 22–27+67-70+88 DOI: 10.2307/3334637
Sebtiise
[tekre | teke sidgem]- ↑ https://folio.ng/the-women-weavers-of-akwete/
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/812070253
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2019/08/igbo-weaving-akwete-fabric-sustainable-fashion-future/
- ↑ https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/akwete/
- ↑ Akwete cloth: An Igbo textile art Vanguard Newspaper JULY 26, 2012
- ↑ 6.0 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5 6.6 6.7 6.8 https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1225193026
- ↑ https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/akwete/
- ↑ 8.0 8.1 https://dx.doi.org/10.2307/3335705
- ↑ 9.0 9.1 9.2 9.3 https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/286447251
- ↑ 10.0 10.1 Akwete Cloth and Its Motifs, Marian Davis, African Arts Vol. 7, No. 3 (Spring, 1974), p. 22 Published by: UCLA James S. Coleman African Studies Center
- ↑ https://bellafricana.com/traditional-igbo-textile-akwete/
- ↑ https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/14932992